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Hidden from Tourists

Hidden behind the hordes of tourists, tourist restaurants, and tourist shops lie the very un-touristy local hideaways in the back alleys. The wine bars of Venice (also known as "cicchetterias") are distinctly local, and they purposefully built themselves in the back alleys to avoid the masses. Sit down and grab an ombre, named after the Venetian wine merchants forced to stay in the shade, and munch on some cicchetti, including the local favorites: folpeti consi (baby octopus) and baccalà mantecato (codfish and olive oil on bread). Some of the best places: All'Arco with their large and tasty sandwiches, Do spade offering succulent calamari and black ink cuttlefish pasta; Do Mori, less crowded with friendly service; and Vini da Pinto, with a multi-language menu right next to the fish market.

Utrip Tips

* All'Arco: San Polo 436, 39 041 520 56 66 * Do Spade: Calle Do Spade 19, cantinadospade.com, 39 041 521 0583 * Do Mori: San Polo 429, 39 041 522 5401 * Vini da Pinto: San Polo 367, www.vinidapinto.it, 39 041 522 4599 * Recommended by Local Expert Eva Maria Ohtonen

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